Building High-Impact Sustainability Teams in Fashion

by : Tan France

For four consecutive years, the 'Vogue Business' Sustainability Leaders Survey has meticulously gathered insights from leading figures in corporate sustainability, aiming to pinpoint the essential elements contributing to a successful sustainability team. This continuous effort has revealed that many such teams are frequently under-resourced and overextended, burdened with the task of achieving significant systemic change with limited financial backing and often operating in isolation. A noticeable lack of cross-functional collaboration persists, despite the inherent need to engage with stakeholders throughout the entire supply chain to meet sustainability objectives. Consequently, professionals in this field often experience substantial burnout.

How Fashion Brands Are Revolutionizing Sustainability Strategies

In a compelling exploration of fashion's evolving commitment to environmental and social responsibility, the latest 'Vogue Business' Sustainability Leaders Survey has unveiled a comprehensive toolkit for cultivating highly effective sustainability teams. This initiative, born from extensive research spanning 2022 to 2025, addresses the critical challenges faced by sustainability professionals, including chronic under-resourcing, overwhelming workloads, and the imperative for greater cross-functional collaboration. The survey's findings have been distilled into a series of actionable case studies and nine distinct 'sustainability archetypes,' developed in collaboration with Hannah Phang, co-founder and chief marketing officer of The Now Work consultancy. These archetypes represent core skills vital for sustainability teams, illustrating how roles can adapt and evolve based on an organization's scale and needs. Phang emphasizes the fluidity of these roles, noting that an individual might transition from a 'translator' in a COO meeting to a 'visionary' when engaging with the CEO on strategic direction. This adaptability is crucial as the sustainability landscape shifts from technical problem-solving to requiring persuasive communication and diplomatic negotiation.

The report highlights several pioneering brands and their unique approaches:

  • Tekla (Copenhagen): This lifestyle brand exemplifies how smaller enterprises manage sustainability with limited personnel. Originally a one-person endeavor led by Head of Sustainability Pippa Smart, the team expanded to two with the addition of a sustainability coordinator. This expansion allowed Smart to pivot from administrative tasks to more strategic, visionary work, particularly in response to new regulations. Tekla leverages external partners like Fairly Made for traceability and Carbon Trail for carbon accounting, and relies on industry bodies such as Textile Exchange and Dansk Mode & Textil (DM&T) for guidance. Smart's direct reporting line to the managing director ensures sustainability is prioritized alongside operations and product development, underscoring the importance of executive buy-in and internal engagement.
  • Vivobarefoot (UK): The British footwear company showcases an unconventional organizational structure rooted in regenerative leadership. Co-founders Galahad and Asher Clark have eschewed traditional hierarchies for cross-functional 'circles,' enabling employees across departments to contribute to projects ranging from sustainable materials integration to B Corp re-certification. Charlotte Pumford, the Regeneration Lead, manages this dynamic ecosystem, which fosters innovation and challenges the status quo. The company's unique approach attracts thinkers aligned with visionary and innovator archetypes, and includes initiatives like the 'Nature HQ' at Barley Wood, designed to deepen employees' connection to nature and sustainability.
  • Reformation (USA): Kathleen Talbot, Chief Sustainability Officer and VP of Operations at Reformation, has overseen the growth of her sustainability function from a solo role in 2014 to a company-wide endeavor. Talbot emphasizes strategic hiring, seeking individuals whose personalities and expertise, such as a "charismatic engager" for internal and external communications, can drive sustainability integration across departments. By positioning sustainability-minded individuals in roles like sourcing and communications, Reformation embeds environmental and social considerations into every facet of its business, using personality assessments to optimize team structures and deliverables.
  • Tapestry (USA): The parent company of Coach and Kate Spade strategically relocated its sustainability team from legal to supply chain, signifying sustainability's recontextualization as a core business practice. Logan Duran, Global Head of ESG and Sustainability, reports directly to the Chief Supply Chain Officer, integrating sustainability into supply chain leadership. Tapestry's 12-person team focuses on climate strategy, traceability, product sustainability, and supply chain responsibility, with team members strategically located near suppliers in Asia. Duran advocates for the 'corporate chameleon' archetype, individuals who can translate sustainability's business case to diverse stakeholders without solely relying on moral arguments.
  • Kering (France): As a luxury conglomerate, Kering boasts one of the industry's most mature sustainability functions, led by Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability and Institutional Affairs Officer. Daveu embodies visionary, translator, and integrator archetypes, advocating for sustainability as a critical business imperative. Kering's approach includes setting ambitious goals for water management, nature-based targets, and regenerative agriculture. Specialist subjects are spun into independent teams, such as the Material Innovation Lab (MIL) and Jewelry Innovation Lab (JIL), which act as internal consultants. Kering also established a dedicated sustainable finance department, reinforcing sustainability's role in managing business risks and financial opportunities.
  • Veja (France): The French sneaker brand operates on the principle that sustainability is everyone's mandate, not a separate department. Co-founder Sébastien Kopp believes sustainability should be inherent in every decision, from sourcing organic cotton and wild rubber to managing warehouses run by NGOs employing individuals with challenging backgrounds. While a dedicated team handles carbon emissions and reporting, sustainability responsibility is diffused throughout the company. Kopp argues this integrated approach, coupled with fair wages for raw materials and labor, mitigates professional burnout and accelerates change, as every employee's performance is tied to their contribution to sustainability.

The journey of fostering robust sustainability within the fashion industry is multifaceted, demanding innovative structures, strategic hiring, and a cultural shift. The examples provided by Tekla, Vivobarefoot, Reformation, Tapestry, Kering, and Veja highlight that while diverse approaches exist, successful integration hinges on strong leadership, cross-functional collaboration, and the recognition that sustainability is not merely a compliance issue but a fundamental driver of business value and resilience. The future of sustainability in fashion lies not in isolated departments, but in embedding these principles into the very fabric of an organization's operations and ethos, empowering every individual to contribute to a more sustainable future.