Emerging Designers Share Insights and Aspirations at the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Presentations

by : André Leon Talley

In a recent gathering, the finalists for the 2026 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund presented their brand philosophies at One World Trade Center. Each designer was tasked with illustrating their label's evolution, from its origins to its current standing and future aspirations. This year marks the 22nd anniversary of the fund, an initiative dedicated to fostering up-and-coming American design talent, with a judging panel that included past recipients like Christopher John Rogers. The cohort of designers represented a broad spectrum of contemporary American fashion, ranging from Jamie Haller, known for her classic-cool aesthetic, to Terrence Zhou of Bad Binch TongTong, who specializes in sculptural pieces favored by pop stars.

Following their presentations, all ten finalists discussed their entry into the fashion world, their motivations for establishing independent brands, and their dream clientele. Aisling Camps, who founded her brand in 2015, recalled her early exposure to fashion through her mother's collection of magazines and the television show "Style with Elsa Klensch." She identified the constant juggling of roles as the most challenging aspect of running her business, often shifting from presenting to fulfilling website orders and knitting. However, seeing her designs worn by everyday consumers brought her immense satisfaction, even more so than celebrity endorsements.

Amir Taghi, who launched his brand in 2019, found his passion for fashion at a young age, often rearranging displays in his grandparents' store and observing tailors at work. His first industry experience was an internship at Oscar de la Renta at 16, where he was profoundly influenced by Oscar's mastery of color and shape, and his client-centric approach. Taghi emphasizes that his desire to express his Iranian heritage and a clear vision for his brand drove him to entrepreneurship. He values the freedom and comprehensive control over all aspects of brand building, from graphic and sound design to casting and styling, which he learned during an internship at Proenza Schouler.

Terrence Zhou, whose brand Bad Binch TongTong was established in 2021, shared a childhood memory of Chinese New Year shopping with his mother. Uniquely, his own brand is his first venture in the industry, having started during the COVID-19 pandemic when job opportunities were scarce. The brand name itself was an organic evolution from his personal Instagram handle, embracing a playful and memorable identity. Zhou believes the industry should prioritize healing over trauma and views every day as a learning opportunity, embracing mistakes as part of the process of building a business. He admires designers who operate on their own terms, like Azzedine Alaïa, and dreams of dressing figures like Whitney Houston, emphasizing the importance of creative integrity and work-life balance.

Emily Dawn Long, founder of her eponymous brand in 2019, began tailoring clothes for herself and her musician brother at a young age, honing her skills on her grandmother's sewing machine. Her professional journey included stints at Vogue, Purple, celebrity styling, and various back-of-house roles at brands like Jill Stuart, where she learned the importance of constant inspiration and vintage hunting. Long explained that her diverse experiences and an innate drive to create led her to establish her own business, encompassing jewelry, hats, menswear, womenswear, and interior pieces. She finds immense reward in seeing her designs worn by a wide range of individuals, from friends and strangers to celebrities and even babies, appreciating how her work brings joy to others. She advocates for a more flexible fashion calendar that aligns with seasonal needs and direct customer engagement, rather than rigid industry schedules.

Jamie Haller, who launched her brand in 2020, fondly recalled the initial days of her business, particularly the moment her loafers gained significant media attention, validating her entrepreneurial leap. Her career began in production at Wet Seal in 2001, which provided her with a strong understanding of technical aspects and garment construction. Haller decided to start her own brand after 12 years as a creative director, feeling a personal need to take charge during the uncertainty of the early pandemic. She admires Tory Burch for her dedication and multifaceted success and dreams of dressing Katharine Hepburn in "On Golden Pond." Haller voiced a common frustration among designers regarding the wholesale landscape, noting that while specialty stores are vital, disruptions often disproportionately impact smaller brands.

Juju Ferentinos, whose brand Juju Vera was founded in 2025 and named after herself and her grandmother, views her label as a deeply personal endeavor. She designs with a specific vision of the woman she aspires to be and to dress, investing her entire being into each piece. For Ferentinos, the most challenging aspect has been embracing the entrepreneurial role, managing business relationships, and learning on the go, while the most rewarding is building a supportive team with a shared vision. She draws inspiration from film, particularly how costume and adornment tell stories, and admires Elsa Peretti in jewelry for her design-focused approach. Ferentinos also looks up to Bode as a business for its ability to maintain a niche identity while achieving strategic growth, and she wishes for more mentorship opportunities focused on business infrastructure to support creatives.

George Inaki, founder of Milamore in 2019, shared a poignant memory of fashion's early impact through his grandmother in the Philippines, who would take him to ateliers to select fabrics for custom outfits. His first job involved selling clothes and then jewelry, where he gained invaluable experience in understanding customer emotions and making connections. Inaki's journey into entrepreneurship stemmed from a period where he struggled to find employment, leading him to realize he needed to create his own path. Despite the challenges of starting a business right before COVID-19 and the rising costs of materials, he finds immense reward in being recognized and seeing his business flourish, particularly the validation from his clients. He admires Chrome Hearts for its distinct identity and expansion beyond jewelry, aspiring to build a coherent creative vision that transcends product categories. Inaki feels a deep connection to Elsa Peretti's revolutionary design philosophy and her focus on design over mere opulence, particularly her innovative use of materials and cultural knowledge.

Claire Sullivan, who established Miss Claire Sullivan in 2021, traces her first love for fashion back to childhood princess dresses, an energy that still resonates in her brand's DNA. Her industry experience began with internships at Eckhaus Latta, where she gained insights into running a brand, and later at Vaquera, where she learned to challenge traditional fashion rules and the importance of collaboration as co-creative director. Sullivan's custom couture label evolved organically after she designed a bespoke piece for a friend, leading to a snowball effect of demand for her unique creations. She acknowledges the constant challenge of balancing creative and business demands but cherishes every aspect of her work, considering it a privilege to operate a fashion business in New York. She advocates for moving away from rigid collection calendars and prioritizing body diversity, art, creativity, and craftsmanship within the industry.

Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen, who founded her brand in 2022, recalls an early obsession with a Vogue advertisement for Oscar de la Renta shoes, having received a subscription at a young age. Her first paid fashion role was at Bless in Paris, where she interned and later managed the shop and archives, contributing to small production tasks. Whalen admires Women's History Museum and Miguel Adrover, and playfully dreams of dressing Bernie Sanders. She advocates for an end to polyester use in the fashion industry. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund continues to be a vital platform, celebrating the ingenuity and entrepreneurial spirit of these diverse designers, who are not only shaping the future of American fashion but also redefining its practices and values. Each designer's personal journey, challenges, and aspirations reflect a vibrant and evolving industry driven by passion, creativity, and a desire to make a meaningful impact.