Embracing Artistic Duality: Zankov's Vision Unfolds Across Two Brands

A Week of Dual Preparation: Navigating DVF and Zankov's Spring/Summer 2027 Collections

On September 9th, the DVF boutique in New York's Meatpacking District was temporarily closed, bearing a notice that preparations were underway for its Spring/Summer 2027 runway presentation. Upstairs, newly appointed artistic director Henry Zankov was immersed in a whirlwind of activity. While the DVF show preparations were largely complete, his focus was also keenly divided, as he simultaneously held previews for his own label, Zankov. Since assuming the DVF role earlier this year, he strategically relocated his independent operations to share the DVF headquarters, creating a unique workspace where DVF occupies the right side and Zankov the left.

The Synergistic Chaos of Creative Direction: Henry Zankov's Harmonious Hectic Schedule

Engaged in a discussion about the Zankov collection, the designer momentarily darted to the DVF section of the floor to observe a model's fitting in a flowing, transparent yellow, pink, and purple chiffon gown. With the DVF show scheduled for the following day, Zankov exuded confidence that all was in order, allowing him the flexibility to redirect his attention. Returning to his side of the studio, he quipped about his daily routine: "I commute between desks every single day." This constant oscillation has undeniably refined the creative direction for his self-named brand, which he established in 2020.

The Evolution of an Aesthetic: From Colorful Knits to Expansive Wardrobes

Initially, Zankov's brand gained recognition for its vibrant knitwear, a penchant for color partly influenced by his prior tenure at DVF under Jonathan Saunders. However, in recent seasons, he has broadened his design scope to encompass a more comprehensive wardrobe, featuring everything from delicate chiffon eveningwear to intricately embellished shirts. Zankov stands among New York's emerging design talents, having honed his skills under mentors like Christopher John Rogers and collaborated with contemporaries such as Rachel Scott of Diotima. From its inception, the Zankov brand distinguished itself within the often-subdued New York fashion scene through its bold stripes and whimsical patterns. Pricing for his creations typically ranges from mid-hundreds for sweaters to thousands for dresses and skirts.

Unveiling Distinctions: The Independent Identities of Zankov and DVF

"My work on DVF has really highlighted the degree of creativity and unconventionality my own brand needs to embody," Zankov reflected, gesturing towards the vibrant Spring/Summer 2027 Zankov collection arrayed on racks. Fittings for this collection were slated to begin the next day. "As I continue developing both, I become even more aware of how distinct these two brands truly are." Amidst our conversation, an assistant delivered ginger tea, croissants, pins, and static guard to a table before returning to Diane von Furstenberg’s office, where the iconic founder, typically based in Venice, was present for the impending show.

Inspiration from the Analog Past: A Collection Rooted in Reflection and Heritage

Although DVF was in town, the artistic vision for its collection was entirely Zankov's. He emphasized his commitment to maintaining clear creative boundaries between the two labels, drawing distinct inspirations for each. This season's Zankov collection, he revealed, was deeply informed by the concept of 'analog.' "Engaging so extensively with both brands prompted me to seek a slower pace. I desired quieter music, more relaxation, and time away from my phone," Zankov explained. "I barely use Instagram now—for the brand, someone else manages that, but I really wanted to step back from all the extraneous digital noise, given my intense workload."

A Juxtaposition of Eras: Crafting a 'Retro-Future' Aesthetic

This period of introspection led Zankov to immerse himself in 1960s music and architecture, contemplating his Russian heritage. He recounted how his mother, in her twenties, moved to Saint Petersburg during a time of Russian space exploration and societal transformation. In contrast, Zankov, in his twenties, witnessed the advent of the internet. "I found myself reflecting on the interplay between analog and the future," he noted. The resulting collection embodies this tension, presenting pieces with an almost retro sensibility. "The collection evokes a sense of the past. It feels like the very first iPhone—a device that once represented the future, but now, looking back, feels dated."

Leveraging Dual Roles for Creative Freedom and Brand Expansion

The design process this season provided Zankov with profound clarity on the potential of his eponymous brand. "Working on this made me realize how much more I can lean into Zankov's inherent eccentricity. I often worried about creating a 'safe' black dress or something more universally appealing. But now I think, 'Maybe I don't need to do that for Zankov. Maybe I do that here,'” he said, gesturing towards the DVF side of the office, where a colleague was photographing a fit model. He acknowledged that while a single black Zankov piece exists for Spring/Summer 2027, it’s playfully adorned with feathers. This dual employment structure grants Zankov greater financial liberty to embrace bolder creative risks with his own label, allowing him to fully explore the unconventional designs he excels at.

The Evolution of a Showman: Zankov's Growing Confidence on the Runway

This marks Zankov's third runway presentation. Monday's show is scheduled for 180 Maiden Lane in FiDi, a prominent venue for NYFW, supported by a partnership with NYFW Collections. While he remains undecided about consistently staging shows, he feels less apprehension now, having successfully completed a few seasons. "I truly enjoy the synergy of the music, the garments, the casting, and the venue all coming together," he expressed. "That entire experience is incredibly thrilling for me."

Expanding Horizons: Beyond Knitwear, Building a Comprehensive Wardrobe

Though Zankov initially built his reputation on knitwear, his brand's ready-to-wear offerings have significantly broadened. He is actively diversifying his product line to appeal to a wider customer base. "I aim to expand our product range with more accessible options," the designer stated. "This includes items like T-shirts and jersey pieces. I'd love for people who might not typically wear many colors to find a tank top from us; it's about offering more approachable products." This expansion also represents a reconciliation for Zankov, who seeks to blend more accessible items with the brand's renowned eccentricity. Despite the apparent contrast between aiming for approachability and embracing the esoteric, Zankov is confident that both can coexist within the Zankov universe. "We have cardigans featuring whimsical drawings by artist Philippine de Richemont—but why can't we also offer them in yellow cashmere?" He believes that providing varied versions of his designs, with subtle modifications, could significantly influence a customer's decision to purchase.

Curating an Enduring Style: Defining Zankov's Signature Silhouettes

"Not every piece needs to be entirely novel, and I believe that's where we excel," he articulated. "However, I now want to offer items that people will return to repeatedly." His experience designing for DVF has shaped this perspective. "DVF is a well-established brand. It has fabrics that have been integral to its collections for years, and essential silhouettes that form its core line," he explained, citing the iconic wrap dress, which he reimagined on Thursday. "But with Zankov, we don't have established essentials. We have recurring elements, be it a material or a silhouette. My next goal is to build a truly foundational wardrobe for Zankov." Essentially, he is in the process of identifying what could become Zankov's equivalent of the classic wrap dress.

Listening to the Customer and Venturing into Footwear

To achieve this, he is closely attuned to customer feedback. While showcasing the collection, he presented a bright yellow mesh tank with pink and green lining. "José Criales-Unzueta, Vanity Fair's style correspondent, acquired this piece two seasons ago," Zankov noted. "Everyone keeps requesting them, so I'm bringing it back." This season also marks Zankov's debut in footwear, a venture initiated by a rapid 36-hour trip to Porto with Apiccaps, where he developed three styles for the show. (Apiccaps collaborates with New York designers annually to promote the Portuguese footwear industry.)

Strategic Expansion: Footwear and the Future of Zankov's Product Line

"While knitwear is my area of expertise with Zankov, I'm gradually expanding into silk, beading, embroidery, and tailoring. So, I suppose shoes were the logical next step," Zankov remarked. Footwear was not initially in his immediate plans, but when the opportunity arose, he decided to explore it. This does not imply an immediate launch of Zankov shoes for retail, however. "We'll see how the shoes are received. Even if we're prepared to sell them, I want to approach everything deliberately and take my time."

Strategic Business Growth: Expanding Reach and Direct-to-Consumer Engagement

With an expanded design repertoire comes an intensified focus on business development. Six years into his brand's journey, Zankov is dedicated to scaling the company—not only in terms of product offerings but also distribution and related commercial ventures. "Currently, Zankov is in a very compelling position," he stated. "We have excellent global distribution." In the United States, Zankov products are available at prestigious retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, and Net-a-Porter, alongside smaller boutiques like McMullen. He recently fulfilled his first order for Galeries Lafayette in Paris, and in London, the brand is now stocked at Selfridges and Harrods.

Navigating Market Shifts: Bolstering Direct-to-Consumer Strategy

However, like many independent brands, Zankov was not immune to the challenges posed by last year's upheaval in wholesale markets. Consequently, he is now prioritizing the strengthening of his direct-to-consumer (DTC) business. "Our DTC segment is extremely important to me. We have exciting news regarding a business partner in the near future, which I can't disclose yet, but it extends beyond just the clothing," Zankov revealed. "The brand is established, its visual language is clear," he mused, glancing at the racks displaying a vivid array of chiffon, sparkles, silk garments, and some cotton nylon pieces. "The focus now is on growing the business from a more commercial standpoint."